fake wooden facade

[grim reaper]

i want to make a faux wall to go in front of my garage. i dont know what sort of wall to make and how to make it. any hints and ideas ?? please !!

[Technical Terror]

Maybe this is what you're looking for?
http://pic1.piczo.com/TechnicalTerror/?g=16900832&cr=1

[grim reaper]

nice one tt but im looking for a sort of design that i can add a door and window to

[ruafraid]

I used old shipping pallets for mine last year. Will those work for you ?

[Frighteners Entertainment]

If you can fasten it to your garage, luan with 1x3's would work.
Paint on whatever you want for whatever look you want.

[Vlad]

If you mean add a real door and window to it, then you want framed wall sections. Here's the backside of my fake castle walls. >>>>>>>>>>>>
http://terroronbeechwood.com/index.php?pr=20052

[fontgeek]

A couple of questions.
What is the theme of your haunt? This may vary what or how you want to build your facade.
Do the door and window have to be operational (working)?
How tall or high do you want to go?

Many years ago, at a major local amusement park, we built a rather large structure that used commercial scaffolding as the basic framework, with a large crypt/mausoleum on one side, and the undertaker's on the other side.
We used 1/4" plywood with foamcore facing, sculpted to look like stonework on one side, and clapboard siding on the other. We ran eyebolts through the wood, and bungee cords from eye to eye on the opposing sides. You could use cable, pipe clamps or any of a number of other fasteners to hold the walls.
The scaffolding gave a super solid base, and we were able to build it a couple stories tall without much effort. and because of the bungee cords and brackets, we could build this in a major hurry, and with no specialized tools.
The construction method is very easy to do, but the sections are 10' wide by 5' tall and deep. They can be stacked, and or extended to meet almost any need, and the scaffolding can be rented fairly cheaply.

[Bram Bones]

fGeek, you got it ALL WRONG!
Dig out the foundation for your wall. Dig the approximately 2 ft. wide, 8 inches deep.
Construction Step 2 (Filling in with base material)
- Next fill the hole with your base material. Gravel is the best base to use. Dirt can also be used, but keep in mind this is probably a long term investment.
Construction Step 3 (Compacting)
- After filling the hole with base material, now you need to compact it. The easiest way is to rent a compactor, or ‘tamper.’ This gives the block a firm base to stand on.
Construction Step 4 (Laying Base Row of Block)
- After tamping, start laying the block. The first row will need to have the flanges broken off. Smack the block with a hammer, right where the flange and block meet. Set the block without flanges in the desired spot and take out your level. If one side, or the front or back is too high, SMACK IT with your block hammer. Hit the block until its level. Do the same for each block on the bottom level.
Construction Step 5 (Stacking Blocks)
-After your base course is laid, the rest is easy. Just stack the next row, off-setting second row of block 1/2 block over from the other (Figure 3).
Construction Step 6 (Placement of Erosion Control Fabric)
- After the 2nd or 3rd row of blocks, the erosion control fabric should be placed directly behind the wall so dirt cannot get through the cracks. Make sure there is overhang at the bottom, and fold it back so dirt can be placed on it to hold it in place.
Construction Step 7
- After laying the fabric, ‘back-fill' the wall. Just take the dirt you dug out from the base. Make sure it is compacted as you go, but just stepping on it this time will do.
- After all the blocks are laid, step back, take a look, and see what you got. If you don’t like it, it can be taken apart. Its a hassle, but hey, you want this to last for a while don’t you? Be sure to return rented equipment, un-used materials, and the rest is easy. Clean up the sight.

[DeathTouch]

Would a door made from foam be what you are looking for?