Fog Machine Wireless to Wired Tutorial
I know someone somewhere once posted a how to on how to take The Fog Machine 400W fogger that most department stores carry nowadays with only a wireless remote and change it to a wired connection so you can connect to an external device to control the fog.
Can't find those instructions anymore and since you can usually find these at really good prices after Halloween some of you may have interest so I thought I'd do a how to as I use these litter foggers for props and hook them into whatever prop controller I'm using, Picoboo, Arduino ect. but they need to be wired for that so here you go.
Tools and stuff needed:
Wire strippers
Couple of small torx bits
Phillips screwdriver
Crimp sleeve or screw on connectors
PC power cord ends removed
Plug for cord (optional)
First off here's the unit I'm talking about:
http://postimg.org/image/kz46llf63/
Take the cover off to get to the inside:
http://postimg.org/image/pma8nd2iz/
Clip the zip tie off this bundle:
http://postimg.org/image/tjxicrpcb/
Remove the screws on this on the back of the unit:
http://postimg.org/image/npdiisbuz/
Push the circut board up enough to remove the wire plug:
http://postimg.org/image/5nudkzhu3/
Remove the 2 screws so you can get the receiver out of the top of the fogger:
http://postimg.org/image/mlte6tr7v/
Remove these 2 screws and pull out the whole wired unit:
http://postimg.org/image/thi83ob2j/
http://postimg.org/image/u8ay9gdfv/
I printed a hole plug on a 3D printer to fit the hole and push a PC power cord through:
http://postimg.org/image/w1duxrymj/
Screwed into housing:
http://postimg.org/image/nx5qt1c7f/
http://postimg.org/image/fsxmoapsb/
Power cord pushed in:
http://postimg.org/image/7by4ddl3f/
Inside the unit you'll be working with these 2 wire bundles:
http://postimg.org/image/t8g2008wb/
http://postimg.org/image/ltqq7mn0r/
Leave the one with only 2 wires (red and white) alone:
http://postimg.org/image/jqgazyn7v/
Clip off one of the wire connectors as close to the top as you can. In this image I'm working with the white, white, red wire one:
http://postimg.org/image/yb1z8j7kb/
Connect the black wire from the power cord to the White, White, Red bundle and the white wire from the power cord to the White, White, B/W wire bundle:
http://postimg.org/image/xa1qjeqkr/
Ground the green wire from the power cord to the ground nut on bottom of unit:
http://postimg.org/image/k764050cr/
Zip tie all the bundles back together if you want, I did:
http://postimg.org/image/d5crrom4r/
I also added a zip tie at the base of the entrance hole to avoid pulling the PC power cord out:
http://postimg.org/image/ctvbex5or/
Now you have a wired fogger that you can hook up to whatever trigger you want and get rid of the awful wireless remote!
http://postimg.org/image/dko1kp823/
I use a light switch to test it out:
http://postimg.org/image/ixcvytvyj/
And that's it! Not sure if anyone can use this but just in case it's a really simple solution to, IMO, make these little readily available cheap foggers much more user friendly! I connect them mostly to Picoboo's and they run great that way!
I know someone somewhere once posted a how to on how to take The Fog Machine 400W fogger that most department stores carry nowadays with only a wireless remote and change it to a wired connection so you can connect to an external device to control the fog.
Can't find those instructions anymore and since you can usually find these at really good prices after Halloween some of you may have interest so I thought I'd do a how to as I use these litter foggers for props and hook them into whatever prop controller I'm using, Picoboo, Arduino ect. but they need to be wired for that so here you go.
Tools and stuff needed:
Wire strippers
Couple of small torx bits
Phillips screwdriver
Crimp sleeve or screw on connectors
PC power cord ends removed
Plug for cord (optional)
First off here's the unit I'm talking about:
http://postimg.org/image/kz46llf63/
Take the cover off to get to the inside:
http://postimg.org/image/pma8nd2iz/
Clip the zip tie off this bundle:
http://postimg.org/image/tjxicrpcb/
Remove the screws on this on the back of the unit:
http://postimg.org/image/npdiisbuz/
Push the circut board up enough to remove the wire plug:
http://postimg.org/image/5nudkzhu3/
Remove the 2 screws so you can get the receiver out of the top of the fogger:
http://postimg.org/image/mlte6tr7v/
Remove these 2 screws and pull out the whole wired unit:
http://postimg.org/image/thi83ob2j/
http://postimg.org/image/u8ay9gdfv/
I printed a hole plug on a 3D printer to fit the hole and push a PC power cord through:
http://postimg.org/image/w1duxrymj/
Screwed into housing:
http://postimg.org/image/nx5qt1c7f/
http://postimg.org/image/fsxmoapsb/
Power cord pushed in:
http://postimg.org/image/7by4ddl3f/
Inside the unit you'll be working with these 2 wire bundles:
http://postimg.org/image/t8g2008wb/
http://postimg.org/image/ltqq7mn0r/
Leave the one with only 2 wires (red and white) alone:
http://postimg.org/image/jqgazyn7v/
Clip off one of the wire connectors as close to the top as you can. In this image I'm working with the white, white, red wire one:
http://postimg.org/image/yb1z8j7kb/
Connect the black wire from the power cord to the White, White, Red bundle and the white wire from the power cord to the White, White, B/W wire bundle:
http://postimg.org/image/xa1qjeqkr/
Ground the green wire from the power cord to the ground nut on bottom of unit:
http://postimg.org/image/k764050cr/
Zip tie all the bundles back together if you want, I did:
http://postimg.org/image/d5crrom4r/
I also added a zip tie at the base of the entrance hole to avoid pulling the PC power cord out:
http://postimg.org/image/ctvbex5or/
Now you have a wired fogger that you can hook up to whatever trigger you want and get rid of the awful wireless remote!
http://postimg.org/image/dko1kp823/
I use a light switch to test it out:
http://postimg.org/image/ixcvytvyj/
And that's it! Not sure if anyone can use this but just in case it's a really simple solution to, IMO, make these little readily available cheap foggers much more user friendly! I connect them mostly to Picoboo's and they run great that way!