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  #1  
Old 11-13-2008
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Default Internals of a fog machine heater block!

Ever wonder what a fog machine heater block choped in half would look like, well here ya go!

[IMG] http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13396661 [/IMG]


[IMG] http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13396663 [/IMG]


[IMG] http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13396664 [/IMG]


[IMG] http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=13396666 [/IMG]

Last edited by kentuckyspecialfxdotcom; 11-13-2008 at 03:19 AM. Reason: making sure photos were visible
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Old 11-17-2008
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photos STILL arent visable. only the links. LOL!

Anyways....

A SPIRAL path in the solid alum block???!!?? Gotta be to keep the fluid on a hot path long enough until it vaporizes.... Maybe also aids in preventing the fluid from 'back-flashing' toward the pump??

Additionally, this shows that there really isnt any harm when cleaning-out a block... just go ahead disconnect it all (plumbing/elect) and just feel free to blast a shot of water/vinegar mixture thru it... feel free to use a decent amount of pressure too. (exact amount, I dunno!)
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Old 11-17-2008
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Originally Posted by monty1269 View Post
photos STILL arent visable. only the links. LOL!

Anyways....

A SPIRAL path in the solid alum block???!!?? Gotta be to keep the fluid on a hot path long enough until it vaporizes.... Maybe also aids in preventing the fluid from 'back-flashing' toward the pump??

Additionally, this shows that there really isnt any harm when cleaning-out a block... just go ahead disconnect it all (plumbing/elect) and just feel free to blast a shot of water/vinegar mixture thru it... feel free to use a decent amount of pressure too. (exact amount, I dunno!)
I bet almost all the small cheap foggers are like this to some extent.
If we find another one in the pile as were cleaning up the shop were going to chop it in half to.
Im betting the bank that the small cheap foggers could benifit from more precisie control of fluid instead of just dumping fliud in them to get better short term results, I betch ya that the makers come up with a decent desgine for the blocks each time only to throw a cheap pump on it, it makes sense, the pumps are the most expensive part of the units from what im seeing.

Last edited by kentuckyspecialfxdotcom; 11-19-2008 at 07:42 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-19-2008
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That was pretty interesting. Thanks for sawing your stuff in half in the name of science!
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Old 11-19-2008
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That was pretty interesting. Thanks for sawing your stuff in half in the name of science!
Stick around, were getting ready to get crazy with it!
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Old 11-19-2008
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Old 11-19-2008
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Thanks Moondog.
My pic post skills are yet to be desired, LOL!
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Old 11-19-2008
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Well, guess that explains why trying to run a fine wire through the heater block to clear a plug never worked for me! Any ideas how to unblock that puppy? Thanks for the pictures (and fogger sacrifice!), I've been tempted to do that myself, just never worked up the courage!
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Old 11-19-2008
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Well, guess that explains why trying to run a fine wire through the heater block to clear a plug never worked for me! Any ideas how to unblock that puppy? Thanks for the pictures (and fogger sacrifice!), I've been tempted to do that myself, just never worked up the courage!
If you have a heater block that is completly clogged up and you can remove the block from the housing, I would recommend the following, 1st try compressed air, if that dosent work put some CLR ( Calcium - lime rust remover)in there for a few hours, that will dissolve just about anything if you let it set long enough, however if you use the CLR then you must COMPLETLY CLEAN OUT THE CLR after you are done becasue if you dont you will have CLR steamy fog and that stinks to high hell and will burn your eyes extremely bad.
It never fails, we hire a new guy here at the shop and they will forget to rinse out a block and they fire it up with CLR residue in there and we have to open the doors and turn the fans on and the smell wont go away for days.
Seriously after you have the block out you can try a lot of different methods to get the block unplugged.
You just dont want to run any chemicals or pressure through the pump, those things are friggin fragile, matter of fact while your messing with the block dont let the pump inside dry out, keep it wet, plug up the end of the pump.
The only thing is im not sure if the CLR will work on these smaller cheaper blocks, from what im seeing the passages are friggin tiny compared to the higher end ones like Martin / Jem or Lematries and the trick is getting the CLR where the blockage is.
If I get a chance and have a cheap clogged up fogger come our way I will try it just to see if it will work on the smaller cheaper ones.
P.S. Just dont go trying to force CLR in there with high pressure theres always the chance of it getting in your eyes, that stuff burns.
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Last edited by kentuckyspecialfxdotcom; 11-19-2008 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 11-21-2008
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Originally Posted by kentuckyspecialfxdotcom View Post
It never fails, we hire a new guy here at the shop and they will forget to rinse out a block and they fire it up with CLR residue in there and we have to open the doors and turn the fans on and the smell wont go away for days.
....

P.S. Just dont go trying to force CLR in there with high pressure theres always the chance of it getting in your eyes, that stuff burns.
Dude! I just wanna hang out at your shop for a couple days! With all the "been there, done that" you keep reporting, it's gotta be a fun time!

I've been trying to figure out how to create an alum. block assembly. My friend at Wilson is even curious... If I can draw it in CAD, he can have a 5-axis machine carve it up! LOL! (yep...sick minds)

But a spiral is out...that seems like it would have to be cast from two pieces, and then "welded" together??? PLUS, I'd like to be able to open the block for those extreme cases where there is a blockage. - Maybe just a zig-zag pattern in one half of an alum block, then another half that seats in there...kinda like heads/headers on a car - might hafta use a high-temp gasket similar to a cars'??? i dunno....
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