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I have been searching all day for information on how to rebuild the pump in a Chauvet Hurricane 1250 fog machine. I found someone talking about a PDF file that is located on this site somewhere, but I could not find it.

I've had this machine for about 3 years now. I got it out of storage and found that everything was crusted up. I think my pump is bad as I cleaned it per the owners manual, but did not know that I should run fog through it before putting it up. If I knew then what I know now. :googly:

Anyway, has anyone tried to rebuild their pump or know where I could find information to do so?

Thanks,

:voorhees:
 

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I have the same fogger, same age (3 years) and the same problem with the pump. The PDF posted shows a completely different pump. The Chauvet 1250 uses an SP-35A. I disassembled mine and blew compressed air in all the ports but it still buzzes loudly with no output.

FWIW, Chauvet offered to fix my unit for a $65 flat fee (plus shipping to FL). I'd like to try to fix this myself or buy a replacement pump first. Anyone fix this pump?
 

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Call them and see if they'll sell you a pump. Pumps are easy to remove and install (as you already know). Worth a shot, and the cost of the pump has got to be less than $65 plus shipping - the whole machine sells for $150. Did they offer any kind of warranty on the repair?

Also, try Antari for a replacement pump. Their Z1000 fogger uses the same pump. Here's a link to the Antari dealer in SoCal. Please let us know what you find out, there's a number of us who have 1250 foggers.

http://www.elationlighting.com/ProductDetails.aspx?Category=&ItemNumber=1257
 

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I talked to Chauvet this morning. They have the SP-35A in stock, but they want $92.00 for it. $92.00!! Hell, I can buy a new F-1250 for $149, free shipping. The guy did tell me about the $65 flat repair fee deal, and that's sounding better all the time. Of course, there's the shipping thing, which may make it a wash.

avlis, I haven't seen a drawing of the SP-35A, does it use an oscillating magnetic piston to move the fluid? If so, check the part of the pump that acts as the piston retainer - it could be a portion of the internal piston spring or a small C-ring clip. The sound you described is just like the 1741 pump was making after it lost the piston retainer. If you can post some pics I may be able to help.
 

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Those American DJ pumps are all different looking than the SP-35A.

These two European sites sell the SP35A for $55-$70 usd:

http://www.terralec.co.uk/fog_machi...mp_for_z1000_smoke_machine_sp35a/18904_p.html

http://www.ltt-versand.de/shop/pump-sp35a-p-7377.html

It'd be nice to find a US retailer.

I'm going to remove my pump again and see if I can open up the piston section. All I did before is remove the plugs/check valves and blow compressed air. I wouldn't be surprised if I fried this pump. It ran for a few hours while buzzing loudly.
 

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I'd try opening it up before replacing it. Could be just a minor component failure, like an O-ring or spring, that can replaced with a part from a hardware store. Got nothing to lose...
 

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There is also this site that sells replacement pumps etc for various foggers:

http://parts.americandj.com/CategoriesList.aspx?ProductLine=0050&description=FOG AND BUBBLE MACHINES

Not having seen a SP-35A pump I don't know if any of these would be a viable replacement.
Thanks for the link to this dealer. One of the pumps looks to be the Shinlef micropump 40 DSB that I took out of my Chauvet F1050. I tried cleaning it, but no sound or fog at all but it gets hot. The pump - hope it's the right one, was only $24
 

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I too am having the same problem. With 2 of the Chauvet 1250's. The pimp just makes a weird buzzing noise with very little (looks like its at idle) smoke coming out. So I took them apart and opened the pump and found really nothing wrong or out of the ordinary and just re-installed. For what ever reason it now makes more noise and has Zero fog coming out of it. Alls I did was clean the pump and re-installed it the same exact way I took them apart. Any help?
 

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Chauvet 1250 pump issue

I replaced the diode going to the pump and I'm still not getting anything out of the pump. I have pulled the pump apart and everything is clear. I'm wondering if I got some of the valves in the wrong position. Has anyone had any luck in properly putting one of these pumps back together?
 

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I repair ours, never had a problem unless the spring is broken. Espresso machines use fogger pumps, and I have seen them for around 50 bucks in online parts dealers.

I would need to see a pic of the pump, if its that common I can order a bunch, but I am looking for a replacement AC rotary vane pump that can run dry, in the same GPM.
 

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OK,

That's specific enough.

I have a replacement, but its not a diaphragm pump. Just very close to original in GPM.

If you need one, hit me up in PM, I will work out sending one, but unfortunately, it wont be free. Probably cost of shipping, plus a few bucks. Not making any profit here, don't worry. Just covering cost of pump.

Why the heater core would be clogged, is a good question, and maybe a subject for a separate thread. But as far as the pump, we can swap it out for something that will squirt.
 

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DarkStar,

This is the SP35 pump. There is actually a newer version that is used in the Hurricane 1300. Not sure what you mean by sealed membrane, and this is definitely not a diaphragm pump. This is a piston pump. Tolerance on this pump is critical. The wear point is the brass collar that the piston shaft rides up and down in. If that wears the pump is toast. Like an old engine with worn rings you have no compression. So the pump back bleeds into the chamber on the pressure stroke. There is also an oring down in the base of the pump cavity that can crack and it is critical to seal the collar. The brass screw with the orings on it is the one way valve assembly. It has three sections. Tiny springs and little white plastic plugs. If that gets gummed up the pump will not function correctly. It is an adjustment as well. I usually remove the pump to test and adjust outside of the unit. But with the 1250 the diode is in the wiring, so you need another diode to test outside the unit. You need one that can handle about 100 watts or 1.2 amps. If you are not familiar with AC and proper safety when dealing with AC, then best to not attempt this. I have been working with AC equipment for over 30 years and I still am very careful with even common house circuits.

I just did some testing on the SP35A pump. It has internal coil resistance of 81 ohms. What is interesting is the pump on my Hurricane 1300 has a coil resistance of 735 ohms. So the SP35A in the 1250 is quite a bit higher wattage. Approx 150 watts as opposed to 20 watts. This helps to explain why the actuall wattage usage on the heater on the 1250 is far less than 1250 watts. The rating relates to total watts used for the device and the pump uses 150.

Now the other interesting consideration is pump efficiency. One must assume that the volume of fluid is similiar between the two units, but obvioulsy the pump in the 1300 must be more efficient. It pumps the same volume of fogger fluid consuming only 20 watts as the 1250 pump that consumes 150 watts.
 
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