I'm considering converting my MitB to a pneumatic one driven by a prop-1 this year. I already have a compressor, I just have to learn a little more about pneumatics (and scare up the $$ for the stuff) before I dive into this.
Possibly, but I think a motor that can lift the heavy lid AND can spin at a faster rate would be VERY expensive. I tried many motors before I found the one that could get the job done and if I'd had to buy it, it would have run me $80. I'm sure if you dig around the net long enough, you could find something reasonably priced that can get the job done.gmacted said:I know you would like to use pneumatics, but wouldn't a higher RPM motor do the same thing?
I know exactly what you mean. I'll also look into this if I approach re-vamping this prop this year.gmacted said:Zombie-F,
Just had another thought. How about a slight modification to your cam. You could modify it to lift and lower the lid (to different levels) a few times as it spins around. This would give it a more random effect. I'm not sure if I'm explaining it very well.
No need to apologize... a good topic sprung forth from this. It happens from time to time, so no need to be sorry.gmacted said:Sorry. I guess I just got carried away.
I have always had some doubts as to whether or not a wiper motor could lift this lid. If I remember correctly (and I seldom do), the lid weighed in about 12 lbs at the point of contact for the lifting mechanism. I obtained this weight by placing a scale inside the box and propping a rod between the scale and the lid's lifting point.madmax said:Two words......Wiper Motor
Ok, I have more than two words to say The wiper motor is cheap, strong and can lift your lid and close it many times in a few sceonds. And if you really wanted to save some money. Use your sound chip on another prop and switch this prop to a loop cassette. You'll probably get better sound from the cassette.
You can use a motion detector (9 dollars wal mart) set on test mode to run everything. On test mode the detector will stay on about 7 seconds, then go off. Or you can use the prop1 (with a relay) to control the motor.
You could use the same linkage that I used on this test. But instead of the motor pushing back and forth it would be push up and down. If you watch it close enough, you can see that in this set up. You can even get some random movement. I use a slip joint (nothing more than a loose fitting joint...but by saying slip joint. It makes me sound smarter ) and a 2 dollar 12vdc blinker fuse to get different movements.
This picture will give you a better ideal on how easy the linkage is. Really, you just connect a piece of metal to the crank on the motor. Then connect the other end to your lid.
Here's a picture of movement (the above motor is running this prop)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v298/wku_hilltopper/chainman.gif
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v298/wku_hilltopper/?action=view¤t=crank.gif