Howdy Turtle2778!
I just started using my Dremel & router attachment on the gravestone that I'm working on now. The 1st thing I did was practice on scrap material so I wouldn't bugger up my expensive pink foam board. Different depth settings, freehand vs. guided by the attachment, different bits. Once I got the feel of it, I went to work.
I had different sized areas and different depths to route, and I learned a few little things that might help you.
Work in a consistent pattern, so you don't have to jump around. Plan ahead to do intricate/detailed routing last. Mark the areas that you want to route carefully and clearly--learned that one the hard way.
Don't switch back and forth between router bit depths; do all areas of one depth then switch to the other depth.
Be aware the speed setting of your Dremel and the speed @ which you move the Dremel/router attachment. I set mine at "2" and moved it at about 4" per 10 seconds. Your results may vary Anyway, the point is to route out the areas without melting the foam (too high a speed or moving too slow) or tearing up the foam (too low a speed or moving too fast).
Do your inscription last. That way, the base of the router attachment won't be moving over your inscribed lettering and potentially buggering it up. Personally, I'm not comfortable with doing lettering with the router, but that's just me I guess if you use a large squared simple font you could route lettering successfully...
And remember this: there are few things that you can mess up that cannot be fixed. If you accidentally route a little area that you shouldn't have, fill it with wood putty/spackling/wood filler, let it dry, and cut/sand as needed to disguise the "uh oh." I don't know if you can route over puttied areas, so repairs might best be done by hand...
HTH!
I just started using my Dremel & router attachment on the gravestone that I'm working on now. The 1st thing I did was practice on scrap material so I wouldn't bugger up my expensive pink foam board. Different depth settings, freehand vs. guided by the attachment, different bits. Once I got the feel of it, I went to work.
I had different sized areas and different depths to route, and I learned a few little things that might help you.
Work in a consistent pattern, so you don't have to jump around. Plan ahead to do intricate/detailed routing last. Mark the areas that you want to route carefully and clearly--learned that one the hard way.
Don't switch back and forth between router bit depths; do all areas of one depth then switch to the other depth. Be aware the speed setting of your Dremel and the speed @ which you move the Dremel/router attachment. I set mine at "2" and moved it at about 4" per 10 seconds. Your results may vary
Anyway, the point is to route out the areas without melting the foam (too high a speed or moving too slow) or tearing up the foam (too low a speed or moving too fast). Do your inscription last. That way, the base of the router attachment won't be moving over your inscribed lettering and potentially buggering it up. Personally, I'm not comfortable with doing lettering with the router, but that's just me
I guess if you use a large squared simple font you could route lettering successfully...And remember this: there are few things that you can mess up that cannot be fixed. If you accidentally route a little area that you shouldn't have, fill it with wood putty/spackling/wood filler, let it dry, and cut/sand as needed to disguise the "uh oh." I don't know if you can route over puttied areas, so repairs might best be done by hand...
HTH!
