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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, new here and new to Arduino. I purchased the supplies to build the Octobanger and didn't realize when I ordered the controller that I ordered a Elegoo Uno R3. I have most of it figured out, but can't seem to figure out the trigger ports for the PIR or a manual trigger. If anyone can help me, or point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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I believe the Elegoo is pin-for-pin compatible with a normal Arduino Uno, so for set-up, you should be able to treat it just like an arduino.
 

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Yes, the Elegoo should be the same as any arduino or clone. If you're still having problems, can you describe a little bit more about where you're hung up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
21546
I have the 8 channel relay hooked up to the Elegoo on pins 2 through 9, all the pics I have seen have the pir on pin 2. In the programming, it shows the triggers on pins 10, 11 and 12, but it doesn't show or say which pins would be a manual trigger. As seen, my MP3 player is o pin 12, so all I have are pins 10 and 11.
 

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Hey all, new here and new to Arduino. I purchased the supplies to build the Octobanger and didn't realize when I ordered the controller that I ordered a Elegoo Uno R3. I have most of it figured out, but can't seem to figure out the trigger ports for the PIR or a manual trigger. If anyone can help me, or point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.

I used the 4 relay shield for mine built 3 so far


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Hey all, new here and new to Arduino. I purchased the supplies to build the Octobanger and didn't realize when I ordered the controller that I ordered a Elegoo Uno R3. I have most of it figured out, but can't seem to figure out the trigger ports for the PIR or a manual trigger. If anyone can help me, or point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.



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The above pic is from the Octobanger manual. The PIR is on A0. Here's what the manual says about using a button instead of a PIR. This is from page 10.

With this controller, if I ever decide that I want to use a button to trigger instead of the PIR, I will
merely cover the PIR up rather than physically disconnect it. I would then be able to trigger the
controller by momentarily connecting the trigger input pin (A0 in this case) to 5v.
If the PIR were merely disconnected, what would happen is that the trigger input pin would be left
“floating”. This is an undefined logical condition that is neither hi or low, and unpredictable behavior.
With a physically disconnected PIR, you have 2 choices:
1) Change the TriggerAmbientLevel property to Hi. Then trigger with a momentary switch to
GND.
2) Connect 20k ohm resistor from trigger input to GND. trigger with a momentary switch to 5v.
If your controller starts triggering upon power up, your settings may be incorrect. Follow the diagram
above and correct your settings and wiring accordingly. Also, please remember that you may
configure the controller to run without a PIR while building, then add one & reconfigure when you are
finished building your prop. I often do this, since PIR's are sensitive and can be a pain to trigger while
testing. Finally, please remember that you can trigger the controller from the PC app with one click!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Uno in the pic, and the one I have are different looking, this is why all the questions. Where he has the pir connected for power, the solder points, are not on my board. Also, most pics I have seen have the pir connected to pin 2, my 8 channel is connected to pin 2.
21548
 

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The Uno in the pic, and the one I have are different looking, this is why all the questions. Where he has the pir connected for power, the solder points, are not on my board. Also, most pics I have seen have the pir connected to pin 2, my 8 channel is connected to pin 2. View attachment 21548
The Chinese boards have extra solder points which come in handy . I get them on eBay


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The Uno in the pic, and the one I have are different looking, this is why all the questions. Where he has the pir connected for power, the solder points, are not on my board. Also, most pics I have seen have the pir connected to pin 2, my 8 channel is connected to pin 2. View attachment 21548
I would think you could just tie into the red and black you show connected In Your pic or solder on to the underside of those .


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Yes - several places to get power on the board. You could solder into most any point on the 5V rail / ground and get power. Technically, the 6 pin ICSP header has 5V and ground available...as well as D11 which might be useful if you change the sketch to make that a trigger pin.


You could also alter the sketch to write an unused pin high, thus making it output 5V (with a ~20mA limit, though)

Couple other quick notes: Don't forget the 5V regulator on the arduino is limited to ~800mA total. Probably fine for what you have intended, just don't tie too many things into the 5V supply as it doesn't have a lot of reserve! Also, be careful setting the arduino on that antistatic bag. Those are designed to be conductive to eliminate static charge buildup. At best, it is like putting random resistors across pins of the arduino which could lead to unintended actions / triggers or missed actions / triggers. At worst it could short something out and zap the board. Much better to use something completely non-conductive. Piece of plastic, wood, glass, fabric, etc.
 
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