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Hey you haunters,
I've just finished putting the final (almost) touches to my new and bigger grave grabber motorized prop. The new instructions call for a rotisserie motor, which is much slower than my old paint mixer motor but still gets the job done in a very creepy manner. A few people have e-mailed me with questions they've had, and I've hoped to address them in this new tutorial, enjoy!: http://www.fulcrumsites.com/haunt/html/mkii.html
 

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Looks pretty evil. Great job!

I may want to make one of these someday. Looks like another brain for me to pick at. :devil:
 

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Looks just as good as the first one Kevin242. I built your first design last year and it got rave reviews. My mother-in-law saw it and wanted to know who that was that had to swing their arms all night and how did I get them half buried in the ground?
One question though. Is the bracing on your 4-bar mechanism designed to prevent sag? Would steel bar or square tubing work better than aluminum bar?
Great prop! Thanks for the great how-to!
 

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Dear Beer, Thanks. :D
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Hey Lew,
Yes the aluminum will sag depending on the weight of the hands, the length of the arms etc... The original was much smaller and lighter so I didn't have the same problems as with the larger model. In an effort to keep the motor from burning out, I suggest using the lightest materials possible... Hope this helps! Post some photos of your prop please! :D
 

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You know, I was thinking that you could take the MkI and dress it up like the "Ring" girl, and have it come out of a fake TV cabinet that had a TV playing static (or a clip from the movie!)
 

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Kevin 242,
Here's the pics of the mrkI. I built it in about 3 hours. I've already started work on the mrkII. Thanks!


 

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Kevin, Could I use a junkyard wiper motor for the MkI? I need the faster action of the MkI for a scare I have in mind. (This is my first year for animatronics, so learning everything.)
 

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Dear Beer, Thanks. :D
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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Torg,
Feel free to use any low-speed/high-torque motor available. Try to keep the prop as level as possible to reduce the load on the motor (there's nothing worse than burning out a motor 3 days before H-day). Like I said in my Mk. I tutorial, we have ours set up on a motion sensor to keep him from running continuously... keep all of your connections well oiled also.
Nice job, Lew! What did you use for hands? Is that wire and masking tape? I love it...
 

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Thanks kevin. Simple is best.. Just coat hangers and masking tape. On a couple of occasions he would get his hands caught in the grass. the wire made it very easy to straighten back out. I wish I could get better night pictures, though.
In answer to Torgen's question, I did use a wiper motor for this and it ran continually for four nights for six hours at a stretch. I ran the motor off a lawn mower battery and had no trouble with it throughout. I only recharged the battery once during that span. Running it off battery makes it very portable and it can be hidden very easily. Just a thought.
 

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kevin242 said:
Hey Lew,
Yes the aluminum will sag depending on the weight of the hands, the length of the arms etc... The original was much smaller and lighter so I didn't have the same problems as with the larger model. In an effort to keep the motor from burning out, I suggest using the lightest materials possible... Hope this helps! Post some photos of your prop please! :D
Hi Kevin,

Absolutely a fantastic prop. I think I'll try to make one for this yr. :D

What about aluminum angle. That would give you more strength and still less weight than Iron.

Any suggestions/techniques on making the hands?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey Spectre,
I'm sure aluminum angle would be fine. If you can get it inexpensively, it might be a good idea to build the entire frame with it. You won't really know how much support you'll need until you get the arms/hands on though.
I use wire coat hangers and masking tape for hands, then I use Great Stuff spray foam in a can sparingly to make the knuckles, tendons, warts etc. I like to use the small cans and build up 2 or 3 layers before spray painting and sponge painting them to match the head. They are cheap, lightweight and poseable. My new prop has oversized hands and long fingernails that I made from plastic plant pots by cutting triangles, shaping and painting. I used crazy glue to attach them to the fingertips. The effect is worth the extra effort.
Hope this helps, keep posting your photos!
 

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kevin242 said:

Hey you haunters,
I've just finished putting the final (almost) touches to my new and bigger grave grabber motorized prop. The new instructions call for a rotisserie motor, which is much slower than my old paint mixer motor but still gets the job done in a very creepy manner. A few people have e-mailed me with questions they've had, and I've hoped to address them in this new tutorial, enjoy!: http://www.fulcrumsites.com/haunt/html/mkii.html
Fantastic work! Thanks for sharing the pic and the info - now I have another project I need to tackle...
 

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kevin242 said:
Hey Spectre,
I'm sure aluminum angle would be fine. If you can get it inexpensively...
Hi Kevin
Funny You should mention this. I found a local place that sell Aluminum
stock by the lb rather than the piece. I have found their prices to be 1/3 - 1/2
that of what Home depot/ Lowes charges.

You might want to try and find a place in your area as well.

Any chance of seeing a close up pict of your hands?

Thanks for the tips.
 
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