Thanks for the instructions, photos and inspiration, ScareFX : )
The shelving brackets work great. Because we were working with crappy wood (hard to find a straight piece of wood at HD or Lowes). We ended up keying each peice. In other words, I label one vertical post "A", and the top horizontal piece "ATL" for A Top Left etc. This way we know it all fits. I'm painting it now, so I'll hammer notches into the wood peices with a hammer and screwdriverto key them. But only I will hold the secret of the key, so to speak LOL. So it's not a modular as it could be, but with shelving pins it could be, if you got good wood and took the time to measure each one exactly. We put a piece of tape on his drill bit so he knew when to stop going into the wood as he drilled for the shelf pins.
Here's another thing I mentioned eslewhere. As an aside, we got 1/2" PVC for my graveyard fence spindles at Lowes. Well, we start cutting it and it's really thick. Turns out more than half of it was labelled "For Drinkling Water". So the OD is the same as regular 1/2" PVC, but the ID is much thicker. Which means I have to make different sized Zombie-F stryrene triangular finials. So point being, you got to be careful what they have on those shelves. dooh!
Zobie-F styrene finials shown here
. I got my styrene sheets for $3 at a Hobby Shop that sells HO scale items. The Hobby Lobby didn't know what styrene was or how to pronounce it, but I bet they sell it. To their credit they were the only ones to have the Brown shade of Iron Oxide Acrylic paint for the drybrush patina effect.