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Discussion Starter #1
I just thought a thread dedicated to great stuff expanding foam would be cool to have around. So here is a place to share your experience with the stuff that nightmares are made of (in more ways than one) :D. If you have pictures of project you have made with it . Or if you have found out the hard way, as I have ,just how messy it can be to work with.Feel free to post it .

my own rules of the road when using this stuff.

I now wear gloves, safety glasses, long pants, long sleave shirt, stocking cap and shoes that you can throw away. This stuff does not come off your skin without a fight. It will not come out of your hair or your dogs hair.:rolleyes: you and your dog will need a hair cut if some accedently flips into your hair.

Work In a low traffic area with plenty of room to move around and keep kids and pets away.

Heavy gauge plastic sheeting is great to work on. I have sprayed the sheet with WD-40, Silicone, or rubbed on a light coat of lithium grease in the past to keep the foam from sticking to it. If the plastic is new clean and smooth you can get away without using a lubricant of some sort. Once the foam has cured it will peel off of the plastic fairly easy.

Great stuff is rather expensive. so I use an armature when ever possible. I made a nice size chest piece by laying a pile of shop towels on my work table in the ruff shape of a torso. I then covered the towels with heavy duty plastic and then covered that with the foam. It came out nice and gorey looking.

thats all I have time for now.
 

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How do you prevent it from sticking in the tubing?
 

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I have found that if you spray wd40 on the parts that you have great stuff on it comes right off, I found this out when I got it all over my hands and my dad told me to spray some wd40 on it
 

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I know that it's tough to use as a casting agent. Very unpredictable. It is great for forming bodies and parts though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mikeq91 said:
How do you prevent it from sticking in the tubing?
Once you open the can you have to use it all. There is no storeing it for later use. If I have a little left in a can I usually squirt out blobs of stuff on my plastic sheet to make assorted chunks of guts and gore.
 

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quick monster hands

if you put on a pair of cheap cotton gloves (jersey). you can creat quick monster hands by spraying a good size blob onto some cardboard, and then picking it up, and smear it all over the gloves....kinda like you would wash your hands....you can then hold your hands in a pose untill it starts to set (usually 10 minutes or so...depending on room temp. once it sets, it's pretty easy to remove the gloves and set up to allow to cure. I'll try and dig out a set I have from last year.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
maxcarnage said:
quick monster hands

if you put on a pair of cheap cotton gloves (jersey). you can creat quick monster hands by spraying a good size blob onto some cardboard, and then picking it up, and smear it all over the gloves....kinda like you would wash your hands....you can then hold your hands in a pose untill it starts to set (usually 10 minutes or so...depending on room temp. once it sets, it's pretty easy to remove the gloves and set up to allow to cure. I'll try and dig out a set I have from last year.
cool I'll have to give that a shot.
 

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here's a pic of the gloves/hands that I made....add a little paint, and they're golden :)



p.s. you can achieve different textures of the finished product by playing with "whipping" great stuff into a thinner paste before applying to the gloves
 

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Wow Max

Love the glove Idea. They look great.

I have used it as a Glue in the past.
I needed a way to attach a PVC flange to a cheap-o plastic pumpkin.
Boy did it ever work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
colinsuds said:
omg that is the coolest thing i have ever seen. do you have a how 2 or some simple directions on how to make that thing
sorry I dont have a how to. But I made a pvc frame and roughed it up using coarse grit sand paper and then added layers of foam over several days until I was happy with the shape. I then took a cheap plastic mask and lined it with chicken wire, filled it with foam (several layers) and stuck it on to the neck stump. I used diferent saws and knives to shape the neck and sanded it down with a mouse sander to meet up flush with the mask. I painted the back red then I cut a rib piece from ACC in half set it on the back and held it in place with the foam. spray painted everything with hunter green and black. The LED's in the pingpong ball eyes don't work anymore.
 

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Reusing Great Stuff

I have been mildly successful at using great stuff once it's been opened. The key is to remove the tube and nozzle attachment before it's cured. Carefully clean the nozzle out with a length of coat hanger wire (while wet) and seperate the tube and attachment, let dry, then use the wire to clear them. I've used one can at least 3 times by doing this. I've also been buying the smaller cans this year.
Here is a monster I made with great stuff:


I cut the tube back to about 1" and shot it at a 4th quality bucky, whatever missed landed in the grass and was scooped up when tacky and added back to the mix grass clippings and all! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
kevin242 said:
I have been mildly successful at using great stuff once it's been opened. The key is to remove the tube and nozzle attachment before it's cured. Carefully clean the nozzle out with a length of coat hanger wire (while wet) and seperate the tube and attachment, let dry, then use the wire to clear them.
I'll have to remember that.

nice skelly/zombie!
 
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I have been mildly successful at using great stuff once it's been opened. The key is to remove the tube and nozzle attachment before it's cured. Carefully clean the nozzle out with a length of coat hanger wire (while wet) and seperate the tube and attachment, let dry, then use the wire to clear them.
You can use acetone to clean these parts. Also will work on whatever you got great stuff on, if it hasn't dried. Granted, that acetone is safe to use on the surface you are cleaning.
 

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Great stuff can be handled and shaped before it's hardened. I got this idea from someone years ago. Cover your work space with a plastic trash bag. Get some sticks or short pieces of PVC pipe. Lay these down on your plastic and sqirt two small balls at each end. Rub a dolup of dish soap on latex gloves. When the foam gets dry enough it's not sticking to your gloves you can shape the ends to look like bones.

You can also make chains. This idea is from Mad Max but I modifide it to make smaller links. You'll end up with a ruff, rusty old looking chain. Things you need,

sand
Can goods boxes. The short ones. 4 to 6 of them.
tiolet paper roll. ( empty )
Can of great stuff. Cut the leanth of the tube in half. A shorter tube seems to aid in controll.
Large plastic trash bags.
A very big area to work in. You'll need a place to put your sand filled boxes. And a place to put your links wile they finish hardening.
A 5 gal bucket or large box to put all the hardened links in as you work.

Tips and techniques.
The idea is to use the tiolet paper roll to mark in the sand. Not deep, just enought to use as a guid to size the foam as you spray. ( blanks ) This wont be the size of the links.

Fill the boxes with sand. ( the more boxes you use the more links you can make at one time. Drawback> the foam has a short work-a-bility window. If you make to many blanks you'll have to work fast to get them all done. I found 50 was my limit.

Spread your trash bags out on a flat serface. This will be where you set your finished chain links till they harden. Should be within arms reach of your sand boxes. Put your box or bucket next to your hardening area.

Using the toilet paper roll end make circles in the sand a good 2 inches appart. ( as you get better at controlling the spray you'll be able to make them closer together )

Make circles of foam over each mark in the sand. TIP> Keep the nozzle moving and use as little foam as possible to complete each circle. You might want to do a practice run to get the hang of it.

Let sit for a bit. You can tell when they're about ready when they stop sticking to your soap coated glove. At first it will be like working with a roasted marsh mellow of the end of a stick. As time goes by they'll become harder and you'll be able to work faster. Squees and pull each blank into a link making sure you don't have big globs or really wide areas. These will get in the way when putting the chain together. As you form them put them on the plastic bags making sure they don't touch. TIP> Make the links wide enough to accomidate the width of the foam, ( make sure they'll fit inside each other like a chain ) As these are hardening make a new set of blanks in the foam.

When completely dry paint gray and use a nutmeg color for rust. A light pastell green looks good as slime.

Assembly
I used hot glue. Cut through one end of a link. Place an uncut link through this and glue the cut back together. A little spot of glue will do. To much and you'll melt the faom. Keep doing this till you get about 2 feet of chain. Then start a new one. I found it was easier to put a bunch of small chains together than try to work on one big one.
 

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You can get some very interesting effect by spraying great stuff on a skelly torso, lets say a bucky, and once you have sprayed it on and let it expand a little while, you can smooth it back out with gloved hands to get an effect that looks like melted or decaying skin. Can be very messy though. Also, it is stainable, although it takes a long time for the stain to dry.
 

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Storing greatstuff for re-use? Heck yes! You really dont even have to clean out the tube, assuming you can work with a smaller tube for each spray.....just let the greatstuff harden at the end of the tube. The next time you need to use the can, cut off the end where the blob has hardened....

yep...it's that simple! I have used a single can to make 4 to 5 skulls out of a mold, allowing at least a complete day between pulls.
 
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