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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished an air cannon based on the $25 air cannon on haunt project. As the air pressure drops at the end of a shot the valve makes a sound like a sick goose. I think I saw somewhere that this is a characteristic of sprinkler valves. Anybody else have this with the sprinkler valves?

I have been testing at a max of 40 psi so far and it is really loud. I have not attached the PVC "barrel" yet. I am hoping it will take some of the "bite" out off the release and get more of a lower tone with the 4" PVC extension.
 

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May be annoying for its intended purpose but I bet it'd be perfect for a clown haunt! <Whoosh - HONK!>
 

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Sprinkler valves honk sometimes because they are designed to close slowely, to reduce water hammer. There are a number of websites, which i can link to later when I get home, that illustrate how to modify the valve to eliminated this function and provide a faster on/off cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DS, where did you come up with that new valve?

I'm not too wild about the sound it makes now besides the wheezing honk. The first blast has a sharp bark to it. I was hoping for more of a blast. I am using a 4"x24" PVC barrel in hopes of lowering the pitch some, but not much difference.

Gadget, If you get a chance a link would be great. I would suspect it has something to do with a larger return spring to close the valve quicker. A quicker off would be nice. It has an 11 gallon tank that gets dumped each shot and recycle time at the lower psi is longer than I would like.
 

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One of my friends has an air ride suspension system on his S10 truck and he had an extra valve laying around so I bought it off him. You can get them on ebay or here's where he ges his stuff from, Suicidedoors.com under the Air Management section. They all run on 12 volt DC
 

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I have valves too, http://evilusions.com/shop/index.php?cPath=26_37_68 .

This is the valve I use on all my air cannons http://evilusions.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=194 .

I have a stock of surplus 1/4 and 3/8" asco 110v valves that I will sell real cheap also if you need one or two.
Brian, I'm having the same problem as Fester with the Orbit valve (sounds like a large goose in heat!). I tried an Asco 110v valve (surplus) and had a problem with it leaking through the diaphram (probably a bad unit). I would be interested in one of your 3/8 valves, but I would like your opinion of these units for use on an air-cannon.
 

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Brian, I'm having the same problem as Fester with the Orbit valve (sounds like a large goose in heat!). I tried an Asco 110v valve (surplus) and had a problem with it leaking through the diaphram (probably a bad unit). I would be interested in one of your 3/8 valves, but I would like your opinion of these units for use on an air-cannon.
The only thing I can think of with your surplus asco is that you had it in backwards, they only work one direction, when they are in backwards the pressure lifts the diaphram because there is no regulating pressure above the diaphram.

A 3/8" asco valve works fine for an air cannon, as long as your not looking for an incredible amount of air or fast repeat firing (machine gun style). For machine gun style you need a direct acting diaphram valve.
 

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I just finished an air cannon based on the $25 air cannon on haunt project. As the air pressure drops at the end of a shot the valve makes a sound like a sick goose. I think I saw somewhere that this is a characteristic of sprinkler valves. Anybody else have this with the sprinkler valves?

I have been testing at a max of 40 psi so far and it is really loud. I have not attached the PVC "barrel" yet. I am hoping it will take some of the "bite" out off the release and get more of a lower tone with the 4" PVC extension.
My first air cannon was made with a sprinkler valve. No matter how much time I put into it, I was never satisfied. My suggestion would to be go with a metal pipe, 110V two way solenoid valve system. It will save you much heartache. There is a video link in the Haunt's section of my graveyard this year and the video shows the air cannon firing off and scaring people numerous times. You can get the idea of the sound and my storage is only a relatively small threaded pipe so I don't use a large volume of air each blast.
 

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I just finished the same air cannon with a lawn sprinkler valve and a momentary doorbell switch trigger. I have a 4" diameter PVC extension on it and run about 35 - 40 pounds of pressure. If I hold down the switch too long I get the honking sound as air escapes, but if it's pressed and released it gives a satisfying and startlingly loud bang - - enough to make the beagle run in the house and hide in the basement, poor thing.
 

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My first air cannon was made with a sprinkler valve. No matter how much time I put into it, I was never satisfied. My suggestion would to be go with a metal pipe, 110V two way solenoid valve system. It will save you much heartache. There is a video link in the Haunt's section of my graveyard this year and the video shows the air cannon firing off and scaring people numerous times. You can get the idea of the sound and my storage is only a relatively small threaded pipe so I don't use a large volume of air each blast.
Where is the video?
 

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I have had the same problem with my cannon. found that if you take a switch that goes in three directions center is natural up charges the solenoid and down fires the cannon the HONK, dieing goose, sound is completely gone.this is with a 3/4 sprinkler valve.
 

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I have had the same problem with my cannon. found that if you take a switch that goes in three directions center is natural up charges the solenoid and down fires the cannon the HONK, dieing goose, sound is completely gone.this is with a 3/4 sprinkler valve.
HUH? I am a true rookie. Do you kave a brand and part number I could research?
 

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IT is a switch that you would find at Radio shack. I'm not sure what they call it but instead of two poles it has three, it is also spring loaded and returns to the center position. you wire the power supply to one side of the switch, that will energize the power supply. Then it returns to the center(spring loaded) then when you want to fire the prop (cannon) put the switch to the opposite pole and it fires with out the sound of a dying goose. The way that this works is there is only enough power to fire it, so the valve does not shut slow because it had no electric field to hold it open. and if that's not was is happening then all I know is this works ..........for me any way
 

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IT is a switch that you would find at Radio shack. I'm not sure what they call it but instead of two poles it has three, it is also spring loaded and returns to the center position. you wire the power supply to one side of the switch, that will energize the power supply. Then it returns to the center(spring loaded) then when you want to fire the prop (cannon) put the switch to the opposite pole and it fires with out the sound of a dying goose. The way that this works is there is only enough power to fire it, so the valve does not shut slow because it had no electric field to hold it open. and if that's not was is happening then all I know is this works ..........for me any way
How do you trigger the switch?
 

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OK thet me try to explain this. If you turn on the power supply, now turn it off, it will hold a charge, now fire the cannon.........(BAM!)....,,now turn the power back on to your power supply.....and so on, How you want to make this work with switches and wiring is up to you but this is the way mine works, and no honking goose from the dead.
I hope this helps...............if not shoot me........Ill just come back as a prop.
 

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OK thet me try to explain this. If you turn on the power supply, now turn it off, it will hold a charge, now fire the cannon.........(BAM!)....,,now turn the power back on to your power supply.....and so on, How you want to make this work with switches and wiring is up to you but this is the way mine works, and no honking goose from the dead.
I hope this helps...............if not shoot me........Ill just come back as a prop.
BANG!
 
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