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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I think, I have exhausted all attempts at this project. I have scoured many forums and the open Internet, for this info, I just haven't seen it brought up.

I am building Giant Candles, and using cement pillar forms, ranging in size from 8, through 48 inches in diameter, with varying heights, and many will be nearly twenty feet tall.

Now to my question, with these sizes, how does a person create realistic scale wax runs, and drips, with drip-puddling?

The methods/materials I have attempted, are not giving authentic looking results.

I've used two part foam, with viscosities between low to high, and high to low cure times.

I have studied many types of candles, with all types of wax material.

The anatomy of molten wax: as it runs down the candle column, it is being cooled by the column, and air.

The solidified drip has a hanging belly, with an upper area, curving and tapering into the run.

As each run cools, they are sometimes wide and more thick at the top, narrowing and thinning at the end of the run.

Some times, as the drip runs, the outer skin will burst creating a fine point with no drip remaining at the run end, but the drip creates a splash puddle on a flat surface, or cradle, where the candle is sitting.

There are also built-up runs/drips.

For the final approval of these props, these runs and drips, can't have an applied appearance.

I don't have the time to build-up foam, or Bondo, and sculpt each drip by hand.
Many other materials have been attempted, with mixed poor results. (Rosco CrystalGel, GREAT STUFF Spray Foam, & many others).
I see, and appreciate, how willing people are, to guide others, on many forums, and I find the same here.

I look forward to helping others, here at hauntforum in the future.

Thank you, Tim
 

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The only thing that comes to mind is a gel material that AllenH did. Wither it would be able to get the proper running property I am not sure.


"Ice gore snot" Clear school glue and borax powder.
I was thinking the icicle part would work by letting it dry then gluing on the candle. You could even do it in the color you made the candle.

Allen's other how-to's are great, check them out too.
 

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What I have found in normal size candles with the hot glue drips is that if you start from the bottom of the drip and glue upwards this seems to give a more realistic drip effect. obviously for your large scale hot glue wont work. I see you tried great stuff, that would be my best idea for this. They do make a minimal expanding version I would think that could work. You may also try different sized tubes on the nozzle to get various sizes of drips. Then you just need to do a convincing paint job.
 

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Have you tried using monster mud to make the drips? The mix can be varied to give you the consistency you want for dribbling down the sides of the candles.

The other thought that comes to mind is that you may be worrying more about the tiny details than needed. How far from the viewer will these candles be? In theater set building, for example, you can be looser with the details because the audience is several feet away, and if it can't be seen, it doesn't matter.
 

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I agree with Spooky D and Roxy.
Hot glue for the smaller candles, say up to 12 inch dia. and then monster mud for anything bigger.
And Roxy is right about detail you can't see due to distance. You can see it while your up close working on it, but from a few feet away and at night you may not need worry about it so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Bone Dancer,

Yes I have used 'Ice gore snot' several times, & I think, in this application, if it would work visually, it would add a considerable amount of weight.

There's been a request for several clusters, couples, and obviously singles.

All of them vary in size.

I agree, it probably would work by letting it dry then gluing on the candle.

Elsewhere, it has been mentioned, if there was a build-up, placed on glass, dried, and applied to the column, it could pass on HD camera.

If there were sacrificial forms, of all of the dimensions needed, they could be prepared for lay-up, with release, for easy removal.

I appreciate the help, Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Greetings Spooky D,

Yeah, I did use great stuff minimal expanding version, plus the fire brick, and pond versions.

All of these with different room temperatures, can temperatures, and varying room humilities, also as you mentioned, different sized tubes on the nozzles.

The thing with poly foams, and actually anything foaming, is the same as molten wax, as it drips, the drip will run, and some times the cooling skin will rupture, allowing the remaining molten wax to drop from the run.

With foam, it bulges, and the bulges are a result of thin skin areas, and gasses forcing from behind the outermost bubbles, and that thin skin wanting to rupture.

I should locate and upload my videos of what candle wax does, when molten, and as it solidifies. I have some 10k FPS slow video that somebody may enjoy.

Thank you Sir, Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi RoxyBlue,

I like the name monster mud, and I have used a version of it, going back to the early 1980's.

We used it, to reproduce the look of Italian/Spanish interiors, and sometimes exterior walls.

For exterior walls, I folded whole corn flakes into the mix.

When I started making it, I used plaster. It can be brittle, and the flex joint compound can be more forgiving.

Okay, as for viewing these lovely things, they all have to be full-sided, and I have been told, HD cameras will be used, along with 65mm film.

Easycam shots, jib shots, and Aerial shots, from two sources. Eight bladed RC platform HD cam, and Heli shots.

Many are going to be used on two Continents, and moved by semi, or train & ship.

I could make some that would pass, at a distance, and I just don't want the Set Director, Prop Master, riggers, and gaffers to worry about, where the placement will be. Just pick them, and you're done.

I have also been told that someone will be keeping some of them for future use.

These really need to be as light as possible, and rugged.

We may be getting closer to a solution.

Thank you, Tim
 
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