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Discussion Starter #1
I was going through some of my stuff the other day, and I came across a rubber mask that was showing weathering ( i guess that's a good word) It was cracking and looking a little rough? What can I do to protect/ save it?
 

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I've coated latex with a thin coating of clear silicone caulk. You need to use something with very stiff bristles or a lint-free cloth or sponge, because the caulk is so thick and viscous. Certain solvents thin the silicone very nicely but I'd hesitate to use them because they might attack the latex.
Note: It was foamed latex I did this with. I worked it into the surface of the cell structure to make a really tight grip and it worked well. I'm not sure if silicone will adhere to "solid" pure latex. It might form a skin that will peel off easily. I know the caulk is more adhesive than regular 2-part silicone so maybe it'll work but I don't know; I've never tried that. I know it adheres well to DAP-Plus caulk which is latex with silicone added.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Does it make a difference if I say that I don't wear the mask? I made a fake head out of expanding foam and a balloon and put the mask on it. I'm not sure why but after taking the ballon off. the foam expanded into the mask and I dont think I could get it off if I wanted to. So I need a way to protect a latex mask and expanding foam head.
 

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A puppet manufacturer I knew that made latex heads and faces swore that by using Armor-All , his latex creations were protected for a mega-longer time than not.
 

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keep it cool

I don't know if this is obvious or not(it wasn't to me at first)If you can, keep it cool. Latex hates heat-like in the hot garage. Store it in a cool place if possible and it will break down alot less.
 
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A puppet manufacturer I knew that made latex heads and faces swore that by using Armor-All , his latex creations were protected for a mega-longer time than not.
You are indeed right Sickie!
Actually, any silicone based spray will work, as I've been told.

But, the pieces can never be painted again.
 
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I don't know if this is obvious or not(it wasn't to me at first)If you can, keep it cool. Latex hates heat-like in the hot garage. Store it in a cool place if possible and it will break down a lot less.
And too add, sunlight, BAD!
 

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Ah-hah! I had a feeling silicone would have something to do with it!
For some reason 80% of my solutions to problems have just involved spreading caulk on everything.
:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
None of these items will disolve the foam will they? I like the look The forehead is lumpy, the eyebrow ridges are full and the nose is just full enough to make it look broken. I am in a horrible position. I don't want to hurt what I have, but I also don't want to lose it to neglect. I just cut open the "head" the other day and put in eyeballs. If the chaulk works like five minute epoxy I guess I'll try it.
 

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I checked my silicone book last night and it said that silicone and latex do not bond together. The caulk worked on my foam latex because it's porous and could mechanically lock in, but my money says you'd have a peeling problem on slip latex. Sounds to me like Black Cat and Sickie have the right idea about the Armorall; you'd have the protection of silicone without a thick layer that could peel off. And you can get it in gloss for the wetlook or matte, too. Cool. :cool:

That's why I love this place. I've only been here a couple of months and I've learned so much already. Add up the combined years of haunting, stagecraft, and art experience of the people on here and WOW :googly:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've been doing some reading about weatherproofing. What about Marine Sealer or some type of outdoor varnish?
 

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I was going through some of my stuff the other day, and I came across a rubber mask that was showing weathering ( i guess that's a good word) It was cracking and looking a little rough? What can I do to protect/ save it?
First dont store them in heat, If you can store your masks in a a/c controlled storeage shed if they are on props. :jol:

I know that cost $$$$ but if you think about how much money you have spent on making your props its worth it. single masks are better just kept at home in your clothes closet. on wig heads :googly:
 

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I've coated latex with a thin coating of clear silicone caulk. You need to use something with very stiff bristles or a lint-free cloth or sponge, because the caulk is so thick and viscous. Certain solvents thin the silicone very nicely but I'd hesitate to use them because they might attack the latex.
Note: It was foamed latex I did this with. I worked it into the surface of the cell structure to make a really tight grip and it worked well. I'm not sure if silicone will adhere to "solid" pure latex. It might form a skin that will peel off easily. I know the caulk is more adhesive than regular 2-part silicone so maybe it'll work but I don't know; I've never tried that. I know it adheres well to DAP-Plus caulk which is latex with silicone added.
This is a very interesting techinque, I am working on an animated witch and was going to try this very thing with a mask I got from Cinema Secrets, Because I liked the way the mask looked, do you have pic's of the mask you did this to. and how did it hold up? I was thinking of using dragon-skin over the mask and had already asked the people at smooth-on about it, but since it is a Holiday I haven't received a reponse yet. and dont want to ruin my mask. I know Rick has told me over and over again that Dragon skin only sticks to Dragon-skin or material.
 

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I have not tried this, but what about a nice fresh coat of latex on the inside and outside of the mask. I would think that you would need to repaint the mask after the latex cures, but it seems that you would get a few more haunts out of the mask. Latex on latex seems reasonable.
 

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I use baby powder..it works great also for balloons to keep them from sticking to another..and you don't have to worry about a reaction if you wear the mask
 
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