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Has anyone made any of the super-bright LED's with the short peices of PVC? If so, how do you think they would work outdoors in a graveyard? After thinking of all of the lighting elements that I need, it appears that I would have to string out an insane amount of extention cords.
 

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I made 30 plus LED spots using plastic coke bottle caps, 3/4" thin wall PVC, 9 volt battery and ultra-brite LEDs last year, and I was very happy with the performance. I am planning on getting a how-to on my site by this weeked; LED spots keep coming up and they can be done very simply (or complicated, you choose).
 

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I made 30 plus LED spots using plastic coke bottle caps, 3/4" thin wall PVC, 9 volt battery and ultra-brite LEDs last year, and I was very happy with the performance. I am planning on getting a how-to on my site by this weeked; LED spots keep coming up and they can be done very simply (or complicated, you choose).
How many leds were you able to fit in the coke bottle cap? how much light did it produce? im very interested in learning more!
 

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How many leds were you able to fit in the coke bottle cap? how much light did it produce? im very interested in learning more!
The most I have used is 7 5mm, but more would fit. The max for 10mm is 3, but you do not get a smooth light from the 10mm LEDs and I would not recommend them. You can see some pictures here http://www.johnnyspage.com/home2006.htm in which the scarecrow and all the tombstones are lit by individual LED spots. More to come.
 

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I haven't made spots with LEDs, but I may try it.

In general, the trick with LEDs is to get the voltage and resistance right. Ideally you want to buy LEDs with known specs... specifically forward voltage and current draw in milliamps.

Here's a useful calculator for determining how much of a resistor you need:

http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng

But if you get the voltage exactly matched to that of the battery, it all cancels out and you won't need a resistor at all. And you can get away with not using one a lot of the time since 9v batteries are relatively low current anyway, but you'll drain the battery faster than necessary.
 

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i made this spot from an led i ripped out of some outdoor speakers my wife bought for me that turned out getting f*ed up from being outdoors???? i found the led from the on light and hooked it up to a 2aa battery pack with a slider switch. it's only 1 blue led also. not u.v. pretty bright as the pic does no justice at all.
 

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Not to put a crimp in the DIY LED spotlights (and I've made a bunch of 'em), but I found an LED light at Big Lots today for $5 that is very bright. Only comes in white LEDs, though. The lens can pivot 180°, and it uses 2AA batteries. I taped a piece of waxed paper on the lens to act as a diffuser, and really liked the results. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.
 

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Not to put a crimp in the DIY LED spotlights (and I've made a bunch of 'em), but I found an LED light at Big Lots today for $5 that is very bright. Only comes in white LEDs, though. The lens can pivot 180°, and it uses 2AA batteries. I taped a piece of waxed paper on the lens to act as a diffuser, and really liked the results. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.
No crimp at all, buying an existing spotlight will be the right approach for many people. The ones I build cost a little under a $1 apiece. I wonder if using 3 volts (2 AA batteries) instead of 9 volts is a better approach economically?
 

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Depends on the number of LEDs, I imagine. Series-wired, they'll suck up a couple volts each so 9 volts is good. Also, you just can't beat the convenience of the battery snap. The device I found uses just one LED so 3VDC works.
 

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I found a bunch of LED battery lights at a flea market for a quarter a piece. ( the 'push on' type ) Gonna try gels over them, then I might replace the white LED for colored ones.

Look around, you might find something already built that will work fine for you.
 

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I was thinking of the same thing. Some sort of jig will be needed, with a uniform length, angle of attack (angle to which the LED device will be placed. The target should be the same too, be it paper, cloth, stone, foam, etc. I want in on this too.........I have some LED's coming from a supplier and I want to be able to test them as well. I won't be getting them until next week, and that of course is the week I'm going to Disneyland so I won't be able to have them test worthy until........the 17th or 18th of August.


What is a good length for the jig: 2' , 4' , 5' , 10' , 15' or all of the above.
I figure on the angle of attack at about 30 degrees of incline should be sufficient to test.
Now as for the target it needs to be something that anyone has or can find in a national retailer.
 

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Tough one, HJ. The light I have has only one LED of unknown power. I'd have to say that DIYs using multiple LEDs of known intensity, like your 60K MCDs, would definitely win. All of my multi-LED spots are brighter than the off-the-shelf unit as well. I only mentioned these because some folks find soldering LEDs scary. I'll probably use 2 or 3 of these where I need some white uplighting. Be nice if Big Lots puts these on sale - $5 is OK, but $3 would be better.
 

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Thanks Johnny, anxiously awaiting the finished how-too, I usually just run with an idea and figure things out on my own, but with leds and resistors, ive got a mental block, I tried once and failed miserably and gave up. so some hand holding would be awesome
 

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I have a decent design also and i have played with different mcd led's and anything under 20,000 per led is a waste of time and im messing with three 30,000 mcd leds at the moment and placement on the led holder and seems to work out ....Ask bonedancer he has three i made for him he can tell ya what he thinks.
 
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