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15% Discount on parts from Tayda Electronics

Hi all.

If you or your grouping together and are building a Awesome controller and getting your parts from Tayda Electronics.

I came across: 15% Discount Coupon Code : 666777

Valid till 1 April 2013 ( 6pm New York time )

Please LIKE if you use.

Si :)

PS **Please make sure to apply discount coupon during checkout, they can't apply it manually after checkout is completed.**
 

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I've never built a circuit board before, and found with Tyler's instructions and insanely quick response to my emails, this was incredibly simple. It works perfect and you can't beat the price. Thanks again to Tyler for putting this together, I see a few more in my future.
DZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Glad to hear you're happy with it. I would love to see a video of your prop in action after it is complete or a work in progress video. I really like to see how everybody is using these. It makes me feel like I am a small part of your haunt.

Tyler
 

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PIC is Peripheral Interface Controller. In simple terms if you can make codes to be downloaded to this Controller. I call them chips. A flashed PIC is a PIC that has the code already installed/downloaded to it. Correct me please Tyler if I am wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Yes I have plenty of PCBs and about 10 PIC16f688's on hand. mdfly is very low on the MP3 modules right now. Yesterday they showed 1 in stock now they show 5. When they go out of stock it sometimes takes weeks for them to get more. So If your prop requires sound I suggest you order from them first and make sure they do not back-order.
 

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Thanks

Thanks Tyler. I ordered 2 mp3 mods yesterday and my partner in haunting ordered the PCBs and PICs. Thanks for designing these and providing the how to.
 

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adjust the timers?

would there be any way to adjust or customize the timers, maybe changing one timer to 30secs...etc, or, I suppose you could just add 30secs of nonactivity when recording to your triggered event.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Adding 30 seconds of non-activity to the front of a sequence would not prevent it from re triggering. It would still re trigger ambient sound would stop and the scare track would start. Only the actions would start 30 seconds late. If you added the non-activity to the end of your sequence the prop would not re trigger because it is still in the triggered state. You would still be missing the ambient track but as long as you cut the scare track short with your choice of MP3 editor I think you will get the results your looking for.

The other option would be to edit the firmware on the PIC16F688 micro to allow for 30 seconds. It's not a difficult change to make but it would require a microchip Pickit programmer to put the edited firmware on the chip. you would also have to edit the edit the MP3 file used for the setup menu to reflect the new times associated with button presses.

Tyler
 

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I was intending to get 30 sec delay before any retriggering, so if when in the triggered state, if my event mp3 track is shorter than the total duration of triggered event, then once the mp3 player sees event mp3 track stopped it starts playing the ambient track even though the it's still in the triggered state?

What kinda of soldering gun is preferred for the DIY kits, I have one of those radio shack ones for electronics, but, after seeing how good the ones I just bought are, not sure I could do as good on the kit, those are tight solders !
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The current firmware starts the scare track once at the beginning of the triggered event then does not restart and sound track until the event is over and it goes back to the un triggered state so if the scare track is shorter than the total sequence length you would have a brief silence until the sequence is over and the controller goes back to the non triggered state. If the silence is not acceptable you could edit the scare track so that it has a copy of the ambient sound at the end of the same MP3 file. The controller would still be playing the scare track but it would sound as if the ambient audio started. I hope that makes since.

The cheap radio shack irons will work in a pinch but they are not temperature controlled so they never seem to be the optimum temp to get a really good solder joint. they take a long time to heat up so your first joints always seem to be on the cold side. Then they eventually get so hot that the flux in your solder vaporizes before it has a chance to do its job and make the solder flow the way it should. Low quality irons also tend to come with low quality tips and they wear out quickly so you end up spending more money on tips in the long run. That's not you can't use the radio shack iron lots of people use them with fair results.

Any temperature controlled soldering iron will do a much better job if you plan to do this sort of thing for the long run. Personally have been using this soldering station for Three years with great results. Until a few weeks ago it was still on the original tip and it was still in good shape when I changed it. I just needed a finer tip to make some repairs on and Android tablet that my son killed.
 

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Ok, that makes sense... there's several ways to get the 30 sec delay, easiest seems like what you recommended putting the ambient track on part of the scare track then, great idea! The soldering station looks really nice, thanks for all the advice and your directions and diagram files were excellent!
 

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so i built the board it all worked great then i managed to hook up the wrong power input and i exploded the 470uf 35v capacitor
so what are the chances of the rest of the board being ok or should i scrap the board and start with new
also if the board is still good any one have a 470uf 35v capacitor they can send me.... they are $.09 on tayda and they have a $5 min.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
What did you hook it to? How high voltage AC, DC, reverse polarity? It is most likely repairable. but I would expect that if you blew up the cap that the MP3 module is likely dead, possibly the V-reg, PIC16F688 and ULN2803 as well.


Are you comfortable making repairs yourself? Was this one to be used for this year or next? If you have a prop that is down and need a replacement controller you can send it to me and I'll take a look at it. I could send you one of my spares to get you through the season.
 

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12 volt dc reverse polarity yes
the mp3 module was not on the board
i was going to use it this year thats not an issuse i have another board already replaced it and the prop looks good so far
Not sure if i can replace the cap i already removed the remaining bits of the cap

when i get the new one i will try installing it and see if every thinng still works
i havent decided if am going to use the mp3 on this prop
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
since it was just 12 volt reverse polarity and no MP3 board it was probably just the cap that popped. If you have a Radio Shack close swing past and grab one of these $1.50 for that part is highway robbery but if you do not have to pay shipping and it get's you going again it's worth it.

Once you get the cap replaced remove the PIC16f688 and unl2803 chips from there sockets and power the board up. If the V-reg is cool to the touch it's probably OK and safe to put the chips back in and test it. If the V-reg gets hot to the touch remove power and make a post in the development thread and I will assist you there. If we get too technical here in the vendors section the mods move our posts and ask us to go to the other thread so lets not make more work for them then we have to.
 
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